Czechia at Christmas Travel Guide

🧭 Why you need it

The last day is the thing that ruins a Czech trip, because it is the 23rd, the 24th or the 6th depending which market you picked. The other losses are financial: an exchange booth on a tourist street at a third off the real rate, a cash machine you let convert for you, a taxi hailed outside a market, and an Advent weekend booked too late in a Krumlov of twelve thousand people. This book dates every market, prices everything in koruna, and says which stalls are selling you somebody else's tradition.

✨ What’s inside

• The Koruna, the Cup & the Hour to GoTake koruna from a bank machine and always decline its own conversion; read the board for a second number, because there is no nationwide deposit-mug system here; and arrive at 15:30, not 18:00.
• Prague - the Old TownOld Town Square usually runs to 6 January, 10:00–22:00, straight through Christmas - plus the tower lift that is the only view down onto the market, and an honest minute on the astronomical clock.
• Prague - the Other MarketsThe four markets a local would rank above the famous pair, led by náměstí Míru: Czech craft, prices a third below the Old Town, and a finish on 24 December, so it is the one to do first.
• Brno & MoraviaA market across three squares with almost no foreign visitors, a mead stall built inside a giant wooden cask, and a cathedral bell that has rung noon at 11:00 since a Swedish siege in 1645.
• OlomoucThe market Czechs themselves name as the country's best: two squares, six baroque fountains, an astronomical clock rebuilt in 1955 with a miner and a volleyball player where the saints were, and a UNESCO column standing among the stalls.
• Český Krumlov & Kutná HoraTwo World Heritage towns with small markets, which is the right way round - plus the station trap at Kutná Hora, where the fast train stops three kilometres outside the town.
• Svařák, Medovina & What to EatMulled wine at 50–80 Kč for 0.2 litres, hot mead at 60–90, a grilled sausage served on rye with mustard rather than in a bun, and the potato pancake to eat instead of a trdelník.
• What to Buy, and What's Really CzechHand-blown glass-bead ornaments from Poniklá, on a UNESCO intangible heritage list and sold nowhere in Germany - and the nesting dolls, fur hats and unlabelled garnet to walk past.
• Christmas Beyond the MarketsMikuláš on 5 December, when a bishop, an angel and a genuinely alarming devil work the streets in threes, and the 200-square-metre law that shuts every larger shop on the 25th and 26th and at noon on the 24th.

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